ABROAD & BEYOND

Heavenly Hvar

On Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, the historic island
is rich in beautiful sites and flavors.

Despite its location along Croatia’s famed Dalmatian Coast, there’s nothing black and white about Hvar. Pronounced “for” by locals, Hvar is one of the country’s most colorful islands. Fields of purple lavender and verdant groves of olive groves (Oblica is the most widely cultivated) meander around old-stone homes designed with fire-red roofs. They eventually meet the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea, where sunbathers relax and elegant yachts bob under the orange and yellow rays of the Mediterranean sun.

Vivid hues and vibrant visitors are only part of the lure of Hvar. The island is celebrated for its fairytale castles and fortresses, especially the Fortica fortress, which provides both a stunning view of the Pakleni Islands. Winemaking is exceedingly historic in Hvar, dating back to 384 BC when Greeks first settled on the island and brought the practice of viniculture with them. Today, some of the world’s finest wines are produced here, including the local Hvar varieties Plavac Mali, Prč, Bogdanuša, and Maraština. Between August and October, there are ample opportunities to participate in the harvest—little is as culturally immersive as hand-picking grapes alongside your favorite vintner.

No matter what time you visit Hvar, wine tasting is a year-round delight, as are the culinary experiences the island is known for. Case in point: Hvar is home to six UNESCO-recognized cultural heritages, most notably the Mediterranean diet—the island’s long tradition of fresh, local ingredients including fish, vegetables, and olive oil. Other good food, or “spiza” as the locals say, include brudet, a Dalmatian specialty prepared with fresh saltwater fish, tomato sauce, and herbs and seasonings, as well as Dalmatian peka, vegetables and meat baked under a heavy cast-iron bell. And make sure you don’t leave the island without experiencing paprenjak, the original dessert of Hvar. Baked with spices like saffron, nutmeg, and rich local honey, these aromatic cookies have been prepared in Hvar’s kitchens for five centuries. Try dipping them in prošek, the local dessert wine.