ABROAD & BEYOND

Salt, Water & Sand

Salt, Water & Sand

Ultimate Experiences contributor, Jordin Greene, shares her luxury African journey into the wilds of Botswana and Namibia.

I​​wasn’t chasing the Big Five.

On my third visit to Africa, I was after open space, big scale, and earned encounters in the wilderness. I wanted predators without crowds, and drama without predictability. This nine-night journey through Botswana and Namibia delivered it all, moving from the endless salt flats of the Makgadikgadi Pans to the lush channels of the Okavango Delta, and finally to the stark drama of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast. It was an unconventional and unforgettable, experience.

JOHANNESBURG

A Soft Place to Land

After the long flight from the U.S. to Johannesburg, South Africa, I knew my ambition would far exceed my energy. Rather than powering straight into the bush, I made the very wise decision to spend two nights at The Saxon Hotel—the perfect transition for both mind and body.

Tucked within manicured gardens in a quiet suburb, The Saxon is a true oasis. You feel its deep history (Nelson Mandela once resided here), yet a recent renovation has given the hotel a fresh, modern, and quietly glamorous feel. I arrived just before 7 p.m., more than a bit foggy, but the genuine warmth of the staff, my beautifully designed suite, and a perfectly executed four-course dinner with South African wine pairings and live music immediately brought me back to life.

The next day was all about recharging. Champagne and oysters for breakfast in the Piano Bar (a worthwhile indulgence), a short city highlights tour arranged by the concierge, and then a quick dip in the pool before a few hours at the award-winning spa. By the next morning, I was rested and ready to take on the dust, heat, and early wake-up calls of safari life.

BOTSWANA

Where Less Meets More

Flying into the Makgadikgadi Pans of Botswana felt like landing on another planet. When Jack’s Camp, one of just three camps in a one-million-acre private reserve, suddenly appeared within a lush grove of palm trees, it seemed like a mirage.

Jack’s Camp is the stuff of legend. Think 1940s safari glamour: billowing canvas tents, Persian rugs, and velvet lamps. My oversized tent was ornately furnished with a hand-carved bed, a copper tub, and an enormous deck with a plunge pool and panoramic views of the salt pans. The main tent houses a Natural History Museum, library, antique pool table, and a vintage 36-seat dining table for communal meals and storytelling. The staff were exceptional across the board—knowledgeable, engaging, and clearly proud to be the hosts of this truly special desert home.

Wildlife included huge herds of zebra and active lion prides. But activities here go far beyond traditional game drives. One morning brought pure adrenaline with quad-biking across the salt flats at full throttle, while the afternoon was spent walking with San Bushmen, the original inhabitants of the Kalahari Desert, learning how they read the land and survive in what looks, at first glance, like an unforgiving environment.

And then there were the meerkats. Tracking the habituated colonies was the highlight of the stay, with one even crawling up to perch on my head for a better view across the pans.

Afternoons kicked off with high tea in the Persian tent, and evenings brought stars so bright they barely seemed real. No light pollution, no noise—just a firepit, a martini, and silence. Pure Kalahari magic.

BOTSWANA

The Delta Shows Off

From the Kalahari, I traveled by helicopter into the Okavango Delta. In a dramatic contrast, dust turned to water, white turned to green, and stillness became movement.

There are plenty of excellent camps in the Delta, but Wilderness Mombo has earned its reputation as one of Africa’s greats. Located in the Moremi Game Reserve on Chief’s Island, it’s famous for an extraordinary wildlife density, particularly predators. My guide, Lazi, explained that Mombo translates to “Place of Plenty.” It took about five minutes to understand why.

With just eight guests, Little Mombo offers all the magic of Mombo with the added luxury of intimacy and exclusivity. After a relaxed orientation in the impeccably stocked bar, I was shown to my suite—complete with a plush living room, indoor and outdoor showers, and a large deck with plunge pool overlooking a floodplain teeming with buffalo, wildebeest, warthog, baboon, and springbok. At night, lions could be heard in the distance.

The service was warm, polished, and bordered on mind-reading. Pre-morning game drive? The chef was already grilling cheese sandwiches over the firepit.

When I realized I’d forgotten my swimsuit? Two new ones—zebra and leopard print, naturally—were flown in from Maun. My casual mention that I loved their homemade biltong (similar to beef jerky)? Every meal thereafter included a new variety to try.

Game drives were epic, not just for the volume of wildlife, but for the depth. Rather than crossing my fingers hoping to spot something to tick off a list, I was able to enjoy extended encounters with leopards, hyenas, elephants, and lion cubs, taking the time to study their behaviors and hierarchies.

Lunch one day was a bush picnic; the next, wood-fired pizza in a private wine cellar. Later, I sat in a glass-enclosed sauna overlooking the plains, watching animals wander past. If there’s a heaven for safari lovers, this might be it.

NAMIBIA

Beautiful, Brutal, and Completely Worth It

The final leg of the journey took me into northwestern Namibia, one of the most remote and stunning regions in Africa. Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp truly felt like the edge of the earth—until the incredible staff welcomed me to camp with song.

Perched above a dry riverbed in the Kaokoveld, the camp is intentionally low-impact with solar-powered canvas-and-wood suites designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape. My suite was chic and understated with a deck offering 360-degree views and constant breezes.

Wildlife here is not abundant, but it is extraordinary. I was hypnotized watching desert-adapted elephants slide down sandy riverbeds, and impressed myself each time I spotted a giraffe camouflaged against the rock formations. Drives were equal parts safari, geology lesson, and conservation masterclass, with guides explaining how every species survives in one of the harshest environments on earth. After the long drive, we hiked up a nearby peak to enjoy wraparound views and a sundowner above the dunes.

Seeing the famed Skeleton Coast had long been a dream, and a three-night stay at

Hoanib included a full-day excursion that delivered in every way. Our journey took us through constantly shifting landscapes, past an oasis so unexpected and stunning it stopped me cold, until we reached the Atlantic. Here, rusted shipwrecks scattered across the sand as fog rolled in and seals basked along the shore. We returned to camp by air, flying low over the dunes, just in time for the resident researcher’s evening lecture on the elusive brown hyena, followed by a glass of wine by the fire, a delicious meal, and time spent in silence before sleep.

Why This Itinerary Worked—and Why Travel with Wilderness

A journey this complex can only be successful when the logistics fade into the background, and Wilderness excels at making that happen. Decades of operating in some of Africa’s most remote regions is evident in the thoughtful placement of their camps, the caliber of their guides and staff, and the seamless way they connect destinations.

Flying with Wilderness Air, their private aviation arm, was not only efficient, but turned a long travel day into a trip highlight: a scenic flight over the Namibian desert that was well worth the window seat. Combined with Wilderness’s industry-leading conservation and community initiatives—and paired with Natural Selection’s character-rich Jack’s Camp—the itinerary was balanced, intentional, and unforgettable.

More than a safari, my experience was a reminder that true luxury lies in access to open space, to silence, and to places that are profoundly wild.

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